Our review of camping trailers and caravans suitable for 4WD explorations begins with the Cruiseliner – part of the A’Liner series of campers from A’Van – and we soon learned that this camper does indeed draw a line in the sand that challenges other brands. But that lesson was still a few days away as we picked up the NZ4WD magazine long-term test Kia Sorento Diesel. Even before we picked up the Cruiseliner we knew this was going to be a great few days. Immediately we got behind the wheel of the Sorento it was already clear that our Kia - which for reasons that will unfold would become affectionately known as “That ‘eff’n Kia” - would prove to be a formidable all-round capable vehicle. But this story is about the Cruiseliner Camper, so you will find “The ‘eff’n Kia” chronicle in the side box to this story. From general specifications and personal observation we already sensed that A’Van’s A’Liner range was not designed for hard-core off-road work, but rather as a “go-most-places” compact and comfortable base from which to explore local trails. And that’s exactly what it proved to be. First impressions are always a good indicator and the hand-over briefing by Terry Gladstone at Traillite Pukekohe was not only professional and instructive, but also revealed Terry’s enthusiasm for the product and its quality – a consequence no doubt of his technical background. A’Van is an Australian company and like all Australian designed outdoor recreational products, the range of campers can compete with confidence in any world market. In New Zealand A’Van’s range is distributed by John Anson of Avan.co.nz and distributed nationally through major regional caravan and camper outlets. A’Van’s range of campers begins with the A’Liner, available in three interior layouts. Next up is the larger Cruseliner series, again with a selection of layouts, plus a massive external front storage boot. The smallest of the A’Liner range is the Sportliner, a compact and lightweight camper ideal for two people. All feature their remarkable A frame profile. For our three-day evaluation we chose Cruiseliner, the model we felt most representative of our readers needs. Cruiseliner offers more interior space than other A’Liners, as well as that vast storage boot, but more importantly for us it offers greater road clearance, strengthened chassis and larger heavier duty tyres. Before packing and embarking on our three day evaluation we took time to explore ‘our’ Cruiseliner. The first and most obvious advantage is the generous ground clearance, which in turn displays the impressive strength of the chassis – a full length 100 mm deep box section with an additional 100 mm deep section extending length-wise for 2.2 meters through the centre section of the chassis. This immense 200 mm deep section gives massive support to the unusual trailing arm dura-torque style suspension and its conventional gas assisted telescopic dampers. With 185 R steel belted tyres on 14 inch rims this camper should have no problems on even our worst back roads. Not totally dust proof, that enormous front storage boot was never going to be filled on this trip, although it proved useful for the camp chairs and a ground sheet and would be a real asset if carrying an awning or a tent for the kids. In fact with that amount of storage a whole bunch of camping stuff normally carried in the 4WD can be stored here – to the point where excessive weight on the draw bar may need to be considered. There is also a usefully large external lockable locker that is ideal for a jack, wheel chocks, ropes and all that miscellaneous gear. We thought that a few strategic tie downs would have been useful in here to stop gear sculling about over rough roads; however it would be a simple task to fit these yourself. Incorporated into the rear “bumper” is a full width storage tube – just perfect for the fishing rods or awning poles. A rear mounted lockable spare wheel and tyre, and an easily accessible gas bottle with the mandatory Aussie high safety standards completed the external survey and it was time to “open her up”. Erecting any of the A’Liner range just has to be one of their greatest features, consistently amazing those who see it for the first time. Terry had trained us well and even on our first effort we were up and weather proof in less than two minutes. But we would get better. First impression on entering is one of space and commonsense layout – a surprise considering the compact footprint. Most people look at campers with a couple, perhaps with family, in mind, but over the years I have found that it is also useful to have a “two singles” option for those times when the boys want to go away, hunting maybe. Anyway, this Cruiseliner offered a choice of one “double” and one “single”, or two “singles” - all in one interior layout. Perfect. This style of camper has the inherent advantage of a low centre of gravity contributing significantly to stability when on the move or when camped in high wind conditions. Accordingly, interior storage is also low with a vast amount of space provided by well placed cupboards and drawers, plus top access compartments under each seat and bed, and the bonus of a top loading hanging locker. The standard specification hot water cylinder is mounted under one of the seats and is accessible by removing the squab and cover panel. No real problem with that as the unit requires little service. However the main electrical switches for the 12 volt and 240 volt systems are here too and that’s just a bit inconvenient when setting up or breaking camp. A generous bench with stylish two-burner stove and stainless sink with folding hot and cold tap, together with a three-way front opening fridge make for a practical and useable kitchen area, while a small table that drops to become a single bed allows a comfortable breakfast area for four. The fridge is worthy of special mention. Able to run on 12 volt, 240 Volt, or gas, this 90 litre under-bench unit proved to be exceedingly efficient – and safe. I always admire the Australian safety standards when it comes to trailers and camping equipment. I don’t feel the same about our NZ regulations. Terry assured me that the fridge could be run on gas on the move – something I’ve always been wary of in both boats and caravans. However we thought we’d give it a try, with the result that we always had ice for that end-of-day G&T, as well as cold beer and fresh milk. The fridge ran 24/7 (as they say in bureaucratic circles) for several days, at rest and over some very rough and winding roads. Perfect ventilation, well thought out safety standards, high quality fittings, good installation. Totally safe. Very economical. Being Aussie there are excellent fly screens on all windows and vents – we found these brilliant to stop the hordes of mozzys trying to gain access after dark as we sat playing cards (under high-light low-energy LCD lights of course). The entrance door is a two piece “stable door” design – a necessary design requirement but also very convenient when spending time in the camper as the top half can be left open. Surprisingly there is no hook-back for the top of the door so we used a bungee cord. Although an awning is not standard equipment, an awning track is, making it a simply job to get an awning made locally. By now we think we know our Cruiseliner well enough to begin putting it to the test. There will be four of us, all adults, and we’ll be away just three days. Two will sleep in the camper and two in a cabin. We plan to go to Cape Reinga, a 1,300 km round trip with a few side roads and detours along the way. With a full fridge and all camp bedding and clothing packed in the camper there was still plenty of storage space left. The first day is the long haul to Waitiki Landing just south of the Cape, but the “towability” of the camper and the comfort of ‘The ‘eff’n Kia’ made it easy. Admittedly we chose the most direct route - SH1 to Kaitaia and Awanui then north up the long narrow strip to Waitiki Landing - as we wanted to get to the far north as quickly as possible. It proved a good test, allowing an extended period of highway cruising to properly experience the towing characteristics of both camper and Kia, and mirroring the fact that accessing any interesting country almost always requires significant distances “on the seal”. In the event it was 550 km of effortless driving, a tribute to both vehicles. After booking a cabin and campsite at the Landing the next job was to erect the camper. First job is to lower and adjust the built-in jacks to level and stabilise the camper. Then it’s a one-person job as there’s really nothing for anyone else to do. Unlatch the top, lift on the spring assisted “roof” handles to raise the distinctive “A” frame panels; lift each side independently to lock in under the roof, and that’s it; a weather proof, hard roof, hard wall, soft living space. Ninety seconds! Getting better. Waitiki Landing is just 20 km south of Cape Reinga, the northern tip of New Zealand. For many years it was the stopping off point for tour buses and the busy bustling base from which to experience the Cape. Those were boom times for Waitiki Landing and business for the locals thrived. But it seems the tourist industry decided that it would be more profitable to bypass Waitiki and make the Cape the first stop – no doubt working on the failed assumption that tourists must be rushed everywhere and that it is sufficient to “tick the box” – part of the “bin there done that” mentality. Whatever the reason, the result is a Waitiki where jobs for the locals are few and the once excellent and thriving facilities are in need of some TLC. The people however are just the same friendly folk they have always been, and there are still many activities that can be done from here. Tomorrow we’ll see how this “Tourists Rule” philosophy has impacted on the Cape itself, but right now it’s time for dinner. The Cruiseliner is spacious, no doubt about it, but the word is relative and with four adults to feed we thought that “dining in” would be a test of both space and convenience. With one appointed cook and adequate room for others to relax comfortably out of the way while all the hard work gets done, preparing the meal was a breeze (for me anyway). Later, eating at the table with a glass of wine and good conversation, we agreed that it was all remarkably calm and uncluttered and that the clever layout ensured maximum use of the space available, receiving a vote of approval from “the girls” – provided the men did the dishes! But the reality is that Cruiseliner is not designed to accommodate two sleeping adult couples, so with our two guests ensconced in their cabin we enjoyed a quiet and mozzy free sleep to awake to an overcast and somewhat windy morning. Breakfast went with the same relaxed ease as the evening meal and with the camper tidied we headed off to show our overseas visitors what is arguably our most important historic site. The drive out to Cape Reinga is still a scenic experience, although recent rain and extensive roadworks to accommodate those ever-larger buses detracted from the experience. Cape Reinga is a very special place. Its name today represents both European and Maori language signifying, perhaps by aberration of narration, its importance to both peoples. Maori had already occupied this extreme northern tip for hundreds of years when, in 1643, Abel Tasman sailed in looking for water. Tasman, thinking of the three wise men, named the Three Kings islands, while, to honour the wife of the Governor of Batavia he bestowed Cape Maria van Diemen on the impressive headland lying to the southwest of Cape Reinga. To Maori Cape Reinga has always been Te Reinga – Te Rerenga Wairua, signifying the departure point of the spirits. The spirits of the deceased travel to Te Reinga, following the spirit path of Te Ara Wairua. The gnarled and twisted ancient Pohutukawa still clawing to the tip of Te Reinga serves as the final departure point as the spirits descend into the sea to return to the ancestral homeland of Hawaiki. Some say that the spirits climb into the overhanging branches of the Kahika before diving into the sea, while some translations speak of stopping off at Ohau on Three Kings. The belief is clear, the details less so, but there is no doubt that this place is considered to be the most spiritual place for all Maori. To some American and European tourists this may all seem a bit rich, but the beauty of the place, the lashing winds, and the remote savageness that exposes the meeting of the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean just a few hundred meters offshore, never fails to leave lasting memories. However, to all New Zealanders, this place has a special feel, for me it is a spiritual feeling that I don’t try to understand. The pressing wind, the foaming swirl of the sea, the sweeping vistas back down the coast in either direction – all serve to accentuate everything that is special about this place. Imagine our concern then to find that “the authorities” with the support of the Department of Conservation, have carved up the land adjacent to the old lighthouse to build a massive car park complete with café and “Interpretation Centre”. A whole hill has been removed and relocated to make parking space and by the time the road back to Waitiki has been sealed we’ll have just another “It must be Wednesday, this is Cape Reinga” ho hum response to one of our most special and scenic places. Totally inappropriate and in my opinion an affront to Maori. Waitiki Landing and a metal road were part of the experience. But this is about our Cruiseliner evaluation and it’s time to get back to the landing to collect the camper. Back at camp just time for a cuppa, dishes again and it’s an effortless exercise to “fold up” - simply a reverse process – make sure the fridge is locked, fold the sides down, pull down on the “roof” handles, click down the side latches and presto, it’s done. With the support jacks up and trailer hitch and safety chain attached and checked we’re off. The road out to Spirits Bay is loose, corrugated, and winding, but Cruiseliner tracks true and steady on this typical NZ back road. As with the road to Cape Reinga this 16 km metal road started as a foot track, later a bridle then farm track, and today it still generally follows that original route. Let’s hope that it never succumbs to the misguided mindset that has seen quintessential New Zealand roads changed forever in the name of progress. The first Europeans to own land in this area were Stannus Jones and Samuel Yates back in 1873. Yates, a young lawyer, married a local girl of royal descent and went on to become a gum trader, storekeeper and farmer. Their homestead “Paki” gave the name “Te Paki” to the area. In 1930 the Keene family, the first “real” farmers, bought 16,000 hectares, clearing large areas for grazing. The Keene name is still evident and respected in the north, and in 1966 the Government purchased the entire farmed area, allowing it to revert back, and today less than 3,000 hectares remain as farmland. The 16 odd km from Waitiki to Spirits Bay proved the capability of Cruiseliner on metal, while the DoC Camp area at Spirits Bay highlighted the benefits of having civilised accommodation in a remote “lots-to-explore” area - and there is lots to explore from Spirits Bay – although you’ll be doing it all on foot. Kapowairua to Maori (Catch my Spirit), Spirits Bay is named after the last words of elderly chief Tohe to his Ngati Kahu people as he departed on his final journey to see his daughter on the Kaipara. He never did see his daughter and he never returned to Kaipowairua, but he left us a legacy of place names from Kapowairua to Maunganui Bluff. From Spirits Bay it’s back to Te Paki from where an interesting 4WD track leads down Te Paki road past the small Lake Ngakeketa to the Kauaeparaoa, or Te Paki, stream that drains the lake. It’s best to talk to the locals at Waitiki before attempting this one; they’ll know the condition of the stream as well as any current restraints and appropriate codes of behaviour. Further south, just past Waitiki at Thoms Landing (Karatia) it is possible to access Ninety Mile Beach through the Aupouri forest. This is the northern-most vehicle access to the beach and again it is best, respectful even, to talk with the locals and the forestry people. The route through the forest leads to Hukatere and Coast Road, which in turn leads to Waipapakauri, but this should not be undertaken without first gaining access approval – and beach travel is not always easy! Te Paki road is not Cruiseliner country and we’re certainly not going to take either the camper or the Kia down the beach – and anyway we still have to get our international visitors to Auckland International Airport in 48 hours … So it’s time to head back, this time via Kaitaia, Ahipara and the Herikino Forest, Kohukohu, Rawene and Dargaville. At Kaitaia we realise that it’s been a while since breakfast. It’s windy and overcast and we’ve still got food in the fridge. One of the benefits of Cruiseliner is that it is so simple to erect and fold down, plus the footprint remains the same. These two benefits mean that it’s perfectly practical to erect it for a lunch stop – which is just what we did in the car park of the Kaitaia Information Centre. Quick, easy, sheltered and efficient – the perfect lunch stop when time is short - ideal in a place like Arthurs Pass on a sleety drive through to the coast. Leaving Kaitaia the route is sealed all the way home, but the Herikino Gorge through the forest, with its extremely tight bends, steep grades, and off-cambers provided a real test of both Cruiseliner and Kia. Putting the trailer exactly where you want, or expect, it to go is critical on these roads, as is stable braking and a minimal amount of “pushing” or unsettling of the rear of the tow vehicle. I was pleased we’d decided on this route as Cruiseliner really did prove its reputation for towing well – excellently in fact. Kohukohu is always interesting. Perched on the east facing hillside with its 1920s architecture complete with the now-fading (in both hue and infamy) purple brothel, Kohukohu is only minutes from the car ferry ramp from which a regular vehicular ferry shortens the distance across to Rawene, an equally interesting, if somewhat more established, village. The ferry was arriving as we did, so it was a matter of driving straight on – no formalities, pay as you go, and friendly northern people. The compact size of our rig reinforced once more the ease of travel with Cruiseliner, and boarding and disembarking was as easy as a single vehicle. As we passed through Opononi on SH12 we spotted a Cruiseliner set up on private property. Keen to get an unbiased comment we stopped and looked around for the occupants. No one home but a photo and a moment down memory lane beside Opo’s memorial justified the stop. The road through the Waipoua Forest is well known to most NZers and once again the winding roads offered further evaluation opportunities of our rig. More open and flowing than the Herikino Gorge, the Waipoua Forest allowed us to maintain higher average speeds with the opportunity to observe the excellent stability of Cruiseliner’s unusual suspension as the shock absorbers controlled bumps on the many undulating apexes of the sealed forest road. We’d fitted a lot into the day and we were all tired so the ease of towing and absence of any feeling of being pushed around was more than welcome and appreciated. Dargaville is a neat little town and it’s always a pleasure to spend time here. Many years ago when the Toheroa Season was in place we would take the kids out of school and spend a few days collecting the delectable shellfish. While the shops are a little more sophisticated and the general standard of the council’s maintenance is now excellent, Dargaville still has the charm that it offered us then. Booked into the very good Dargaville Campervan Park, two in a cabin – a renovated railway wagon actually - and the Cruiseliner up in a minute, we decided to spoil ourselves with a roast dinner from the Ezy Roast Company, just a five minute walk from camp. Eating out in the setting sun with a cold beer and a hot meal we had time to think about how we all felt about “our” Cruiseliner. We already had the opinion that Cruiseliner would be suited to a base camp from which to explore. In fact it proved to be an even more comfortable and convenient base than we had anticipated. The ease with which it handles quite rough loose surface corrugated roads was pleasing although overall width will always be the deciding factor when considering narrow off-highway tracks. The incredible speed and simplicity of setting up had always attracted us but we are still marvelling on just how simple it is. The fact that the footprint remains the same in living and towing mode makes it a practical road-side cuppa stop in disagreeable weather. Great storage and kitchen make it practical for a family or a group of friends, provided additional sleeping accommodation is available. I’d take our OzTent along, or use camping ground cabins as in this story. We also decided that Te Paki is worth some time. While 4WD tracks are limited, there are a number of 4WD tours available. There is a range of accommodation options in the area, with the two main camping grounds at Waitiki Landing and Spirits Bay. It’s also worth exploring the many side roads that branch both west and east off the main SH1, for example Te Hapu, or Rarawa Beach, where there’s a camp ground. And if you’re happy to leave the comfort of your vehicle, there are walks aplenty, enough to justify several days working out of Spirits Bay camp. When we arrived home, as if in confirmation, a friend had just returned from the South Island where they had met a middle-aged couple who had been touring the country in their Cruiseliner. At the time of meeting up, they had been on the road for two years!