There’s some stunning country between the Inward (aka Inland) and Seaward Kaikoura Ranges as 4x4 Explorer’s Richard Soult found out on a recent ‘re’ recce!
Earlier this year I posted on the 4x4Explorer Facebook page a photo of a gate, asking people if they knew what lay behind and inviting people, in turn, to post their own photos. Only two did, however, which led me to believe that the area where the gate was – the Clarence River Valley inland from Kaikoura, is something of an undiscovered gem, and therefore, warranted another look.
As with a lot of my most recent trips, this one started with a text conversation with my good friend, Scott Gray. Scott is based in Timaru and I was in Motueka. After having spent the previous few months around South Canterbury and Central Otago, I wasn’t that keen to drive all the way back down and the weather wasn’t looking too sharp. In fact, we were just about to can the idea, when he suggested the Clarence.
This, as I was about to rediscover, is an amazing area, pretty much equidistant for both Scott and I, and although I have extensively mapped it for 4x4Explorer, I hadn’t been in since the ‘quakes and was interested to see what condition the tracks were in.
We on!
I phoned the station owners, paid the fee, got the gate code and the next four day adventure was on!
Despite both having a nearly seven-hour drive to get there, Scott and I arrived at the locked gate within twenty minutes of each other. We aired down and off we went.
The Clarence River lies in the valley that runs between the Inward and Seaward Kaikoura mountain ranges and is one of the most remote parts of New Zealand. Muzzle Station, whom you need to call to gain access is reputedly the most remote station in the country and this is easy to believe.
The drive into Forbes Hut is spectacular! Within a few kilometres of the access gate, we were at high altitude in truly alpine scenery with stunning views and equally large drop offs. This route was thankfully dry and not something that I would attempt in the wet.
After a couple of hours driving, where the views just got better and better we arrived at Forbes Hut. Being a Friday night, we expected there to be other people at the hut, but we hadn’t seen any tyre tracks on the way in and weren’t surprised to have the hut to ourselves.
Four huts
There are four main DOC huts in the valley accessible by 4WD and all are recent and superbly positioned adjacent to the Clarence River.
I have to take my hat off, too, to Muzzle Station for maintaining the tracks to such a high standard and I definitely didn’t begrudge paying the $100 access fee. This valley bore the brunt of the Kaikoura earthquake and many of the tracks were simply destroyed.
DOC have also done a fantastic job! The huts were all amazing with water, log fires and decks. There are not many countries in the world where you can have such great accommodation for next to nothing!
After establishing ourselves in the hut, we settled down for the night and planned the next day. We decided to head South and on to the Palmer Hut. And when we did, let me tell you, the drive down was EPIC, with more high mountain passes and riverbeds, plus the hut was awesome.
Paradise found!
Again, the hut was empty and checking the visitors book, it hadn’t been used for several days. It was slowly dawning on us that for $100 each, we had this playground, which stretched further that the eye could see, all to ourselves.
After another night at Forbes Hut we then headed North through Quail Flat and onto Goose Flat.
Quail Flat has a well preserved Homestead, still used today by DOC workers and previously the base for musterers and rabbit hunters. Thinking about the time it had taken us to drive in, the place had a real feeling of remoteness and we realized just how tough the early settlers had been to eke out an existence there.
On the way to Goose Flat, we passed Muzzle Station on the other side of the Clarence. It was funny to think that the station owner with whom I had spoken lives there.
The track out from the station to State Highway 1 was damaged beyond repair by the earthquakes and I still don’t know how they get in and out. If they drive the route that we took, it would easily be a five-hour drive and something that I wouldn’t consider in the wet or snow!
On the way back from Goose Flat, we explored Limestone Hill. This track had also been badly damaged by the earthquake but is now easily drivable. The high altitude views are simply amazing. It honestly felt like we were in an aeroplane looking down on the river and the amazing mountain scenery.
Home comforts
We spent our final night at Forbes Hut. The evening was a little chilly, and having brought in a load of wood, we decided to light the fire. Sitting in front of the fire, with a glass of wine, we talked about our trip and the Forbes Hut, which now firmly felt like home.
The following morning and with heavy hearts we packed up and started our way back out to the Inland Kaikoura Road. As we climbed back up the mountains, the view in the mirror was stunning and I was truly sad to leave. Approaching the final saddle, I kept stopping for that last photo opportunity.
OMG bro!
When I reached the saddle and finally got a view down towards the coast, the view got better. I came on the radio and exclaimed “OMG”. Scott, who was a way behind me, came back asking what was wrong. “Wait until you get here,” I said.
We were at about 1600m and below us, the cloud base was about 400m. Clouds and mountains, as far as I could see.
It had been a truly wonderful few days and as we finally descended through the clouds and to the locked gate, it felt as though the whole thing had been a dream.
We have extensively driven the Clarence Valley and logged it for you.
All the routes that we drove and nearly 800 more are available on https://www.4x4explorer.co.nz/?aff=2818 together with high quality photos, GPX files and contact details for access.
Hope to see you out there 4x4Exploring!
