4x4Explorer Richard Soult is forced to come up with Plans Bee-through-Zee as a sudden midsummer cold snap wrecks havoc on his original guided route through the Central Otago high country.
A week before the start of the 2021 Guiding season for 4x4Explore Adventures, I was sitting on the beach in Marahau, on the edge of the Abel Tasman National Park, enjoying the sunshine and feeling like summer had finally arrived.
Before leaving, however, I checked the long-range forecast and got a nasty shock. The two weeks guiding that I was about to undertake were to be based in Cromwell and Ranfurly, where – according to the boffins at the Met Service, daytime temperatures were due to drop to as low as five degrees C, with a stiff Southerly breeze. Not really conducive for camping or 4WDing at high altitude
Shorts ‘n jandals
So, leaving Marahau in mid-January to head down to the meeting point in Fairlie, I was slightly concerned that shorts and jandals were probably not what I should be wearing, but it was still hot and hard to believe that the weather was going to be so different down in Central.
I’ve written various articles in the past, so you know that I always carry warm clothes in the truck in the case of a forced escape on foot, but I honestly couldn’t imagine needing them at this time of the year.
When I got to Fairlie, too, the weather still seemed to be OK for our first day of the first week anyway, which saw us heading to Omarama, off the tarmac. That said, while in Fairlie, I got a call from my girlfriend to let me know that the weather was due to change and to be careful with any river crossings or high-altitude work.
I had checked (again) as well and assured her that we would be fine and wouldn’t be taking any risks.
Then it rained!
The next day dawned clear and sunny, with no sign of bad weather. By the time we met for our daily briefing at 0900 however, things were very different with dark low cloud and torrential rain!
On the second day, we headed over the Omarama Saddle to St Bathans via the West branch of the Manuherikia River. The rain was heavy, but I was sure that with the small catchment area, the 15 or so river crossings would be fine. I was half expecting it to be snowing at the saddle as we left and was quite prepared to pull the pin at any stage.
We continued on our intended route and I did find it quite mysterious with the low cloud hanging over the hills and a little more water in the river than usual, but nothing to cause any concern. A stop at Top Hut was most welcome for the shelter and use of the long drop.
... and snowed!
Day two saw us waking up in Cromwell and seeing fresh snow down below cloud level on the Pisa range. I’ve seen this plenty of times in late April or October but in mid-January!
One reason why we use Cromwell as a base is how accessible the tracks are. Having decided that the convoy had capable vehicles and were competent, we headed off to Old Woman Hut via the Carricktown Road and Duffers Saddle.
Getting to Old Woman Hut was amazing. Not only was there fresh snow on the ground but the wind had caused it to collect in several places and we found ourselves driving through snow drifts. Luckily, it was early in the day and so the snow was still fresh and hadn’t melted, which would have caused the already wet track to step up in Grade.
After a tea break at Old Woman, we headed off to drive the Nevis and the weather was stunning. Hardly any wind and so beautiful to have the backdrop of the Remarkables covered in snow.
Driving down, or up, the Nevis, it was apparent how much rain had recently fallen although the track was reasonably uncomplicated, and we were soon having afternoon tea at the Old Garston Ski hut admiring the view. This is still on my bucket list of places to stay. One day……
I had taken everyone to the Old Woman Hut because I was not sure whether we would be able to drive across the tops to the Old Man Range.
The next day, with the weather looking better, I proposed that we head down to Fruitlands, up to the Obelisk and take the Waikaia Bush Road down to Piano Flat. Quite a long day but everyone was in agreement.
Plan B
Climbing up to the Obelisk, however, I could see that the weather was again changing and by the time we reached the penultimate gate at around 1000m, we were driving in six inches of snow and a blizzard had set in.
I quickly announced that we weren’t going to proceed any further and headed down the hill for lunch. Being a 4WD guide, you always need to have a plan B, so over lunch, I suggested a trip up to the Old Dunstan Road and a visit of the historic Serpentine Church. This proved to be a good choice with clear weather and great views out across Poolburn Reservoir.
There was only one difficult point on the track which required me using the winch to help one of my guests not getting panel damage on his nearly new Ranger. All good fun and a great day out.
The final day of the trip was sunny again, and we had a great run up the Arrow River with its 20 something river crossings to Macetown.
Once back in Arrowtown, we said our goodbyes and headed our separate ways after having spent a fantastic week together.
One week, two lessons
I’ve written many articles on Mountain Safety and the equipment that you should carry. This week, in mid-January certainly reinforced what I already knew. If you’re heading out in New Zealand, always be prepared and always know when to turn back!
