The focus must first be on the ‘mechanical foundation’. Assuming the truck already exists, and is suitable for overland work, what does it need to survive rough use in remote places?
Start with the mucky stuff. Engine oil, gearbox fluid, brake fluid, for peace of mind change them all. When bleeding the brakes, give the steel and flexible hoses a close look-over for damage.
While under the truck, take a look at the diff and transmission breathers. Stock breathers will suck in water and mud during creek crossings, and it’s a simple matter to add a length of rubber hose to lift the breather point up to the firewall. There are even kits to do this that include a small dust filter.
On the topic of breathing, if water crossings are part of the fun, seriously consider an engine air intake snorkel. Some prefer to maker their own, and some make a decent job of it, but there are excellent proper kits available for most popular 4WDs, so why not make it look the part?
Guards. Got any? A front bash guard is essential. Don’t trust the stock dirt excluders, they won’t stand up to off-road use. Look through from the front to the back. Are mechanical bits hanging down? Then they need a guard too. Front diff, rear diff also need protection. A sensible suspension lift (less than 50 mm) helps keep the bodywork out of harm’s way too. In the process, the truck gets a new set of shock absorbers better suited for off-road work.
Stand up. How’s the front of the vehicle? Nice and shiny, maybe a set of spotlights or LED lightbar on there? Go shopping for a decent front bar to protect the paint and panel and those valuable lights. That’s either a Saturday morning DIY or weekday Do It For Me (DIFM) project. If going DIY, make sure any holes that are drilled are treated with some rust-kill paint before assembly.
At the same time, add some recovery-rated tow points front and rear. They are usually finished in bright colours to make them visible in that mud bog. Another recovery basic, but easy to forget: having invested in a decent hi-lift jack, do add a good solid block of wood for it to sit on in muddy bogs.
Down the sides. Are there steps or sliders protecting the door panels? Are they robust enough for overlanding use? If not, go shopping.
A bar at the rear is something many ignore, but again will brush off occasional bumps when reversing. Standard rear bumpers tend toward the flimsy and they look, well, standard. Nasty once they get a few dents.
Wheels and tyres are personal choice, but it may even be worth investing in a set specifically for the adventures at hand. That means a good set of mudders are being used as intended, not on trips to the supermarket. Wheels? The ‘gold standard’ must be a set of beadlock alloys. They grip the tyre bead and allow extra-low tyre pressures to be used when traction is minimal.
If beadlocks are not in the budget, many accessory outfits stock tough steel wheels to suit offroad use.
Tyres? Do not venture into the bush on H/Ts unless digging and winching seems like fun. Upgrade to all-terrains or ideally a set of mud-terrain tyres.
On the subject of airing down, airing back up is also essential at the end of the trip. Buy and stow a good quality air pump that operates off the vehicle’s battery.
On the topic of stowed gear, nobody should be going seriously off-road without a good recovery gear kit. Buy a ready-compiled one or create a kit. It should include a folding spade, MaxTrac de-bogging boards, snatch strap, sand anchor and even a ‘come-along’ hand winch. Zip everything into a suitable bag and simply stow it when packing for the trip.
Safety: always carry a big first aid kit. One of the best is the Lloyds of London maritime kit, which includes wound dressings, bandages, painkillers, antihistamines, antiseptic solution, eye solution, bug repellent, sunscreen and more.
Check expiry dates on everything each time the truck heads out.
So that’s it. Except of course it’s not. This is a good start, and just as every driver is different, so every overland will be different. Get into it!
