Despite having grown up in Christchurch in the 1970s, and having since lived in the UK and France, I have to say that I don’t really like living in Christchurch. The city that I grew up in doesn’t exist anymore, and I find it slightly embarrassing that, so long after the earthquake, a lot of the city centre i s still controlled by Wilsons, the car park company.
As a kid growing up in Burnside, I used to catch the Fendalton 9 bus to Cathedral Square and get off by the statue, before walking to the cinema on a Saturday afternoon. None of that exists anymore and I rarely head into the city centre these days.
Christchurch does, however, have positive points. We live in New Brighton and go to sleep each night listening to the waves crashing on the beach. The city itself is slowly coming back and the slightly alternative vibe is still here. Lots of people ride bikes, I guess because it’s so flat, and the craft beer scene is thriving.
I haven’t explored the sailing and kayaking possibilities here yet, but Christchurch does have one great thing going for it: its proximity to the outdoors.
Whether it’s 4WDing, hiking, sailing, cycling, camping, hunting or any other outdoor activity, it’s all on our doorstep here.
As a 4WD guide, I’m always away, but always feel the need to get away exploring on my own as soon as I get back.
A few weeks ago, early April, the weather was fairly dismal here. Typical grey and overcast. I checked the forecast for Lake Coleridge and it was good. The truck is always packed and ready and I decided to go. A quick stop at the supermarket and petrol station and I was off towards Lake Coleridge and the Harper and Avoca Valleys.
It’s only just over 100kms and takes less than an hour and a half to get to the Harper Outlet and the start of the track.
This is a brilliant route with only one crossing of the Harper necessary to get up the Harper Valley, turn left and up the Avoca Valley towards Bassins Hut. The catchment of the Harper is quite small and normally if the Wilberforce is running too high, this is a great valley which gives so much for so little effort.
The route used to involve an initial river crossing, which has now been deemed unnecessary by the local power company, who have constructed an excellent works access track just beyond the bridge leaving the Harper settlement.
I normally stop at Bassins Hut the first night of our 4x4Explorer Adventures Southern Wilderness Camping trip, but had found a small secluded campsite in the woods, not far in and wanted to stay there.
Despite being a river valley, route finding is pretty straightforward and I was soon at the crossing point. The flow seemed slightly higher than usual with the clear signs of snow melt giving the river a blue icy tint. Since I was on my own, I decided to try further upstream and found a crossing point that I was more comfortable with.
It’s always relieving once you’re across the “crux” move and, having seen the forecast, I knew that the river would be lower the next day. So off to the campsite.
It was a Saturday night and, given the stunning weather, I was surprised to find that I had the place to myself. In fact, apart from a few walkers doing the Te Araroa walkway, I didn’t see anyone at all. Build more shopping malls, I reckon – in the 1970s, Kiwis were always out doing things at the weekend because the shops were closed. How things have changed.
I’d taken some firewood with me, although there was enough windfall if I had needed it. Once at camp, I got set up, lit a fire, cooked some dinner and settled in for a wonderful evening beneath the stars.
Starlink made an appearance and there wasn’t a breath of wind, perfect. I’m out all the time, but evenings like that, either alone or with friends are simply some of the best moments that you can spend.
What I really like about these valleys, apart from their beauty and feeling of remoteness, is just how easy they are to get to. I’m probably ruining it by writing this article, but from the time I left home, until having camp set up, was three hours! That’s all, three hours… So easy just to do at the last minute and get away for a night of wilderness heaven.
The following morning, the sun came out and I chilled out with a coffee, or three, waiting for the sun to dry the tent. All the time being approached by South Island Robins and Fantails. Always surprises me how inquisitive and totally not timid our native birds are.
After my dose of wilderness “Rehab”, I was away by about 10 and back home to light the BBQ at 1300. She hardly noticed that I had been gone but I could feel how much good it had done me getting away into the “wilderness”, even for 24hours.
I really hope that you enjoyed reading this article and the photos and hope it inspires you to get out there exploring. If you fancy the idea but would prefer to go with a group, consider coming on one of our guided tours. You don’t need any experience to discover these places with us. www.4x4exploreradventures.co.nz
As always, if you see us on the trails, please take the time to say hi. We’d love to meet you.
Until next time.
